20 June 2023

‘Quiet luxury’ was everywhere at Milan Men’s Fashion Week

20 June 2023

Succession might be over, but the trend the TV show spearheaded for ‘quiet luxury’ is still going strong.

The HBO show put the spotlight on the ultra-wealthy who were all wearing sleek, chic clothes.

And the latest menswear edition of Milan Fashion Week was a prime example of the emerging trend – the clothes were understated, yet extremely elegant.

Quiet luxury is a turn away from the recent fads for logomania and sportswear. Instead, it’s all about classic tailoring and expensive-looking outfits – exuding wealth and power without shouting about it.

In Milan, there was a definite move away from the athleisurewear trends that have been dominating fashion. Zegna presented its show under the hot Italian sun in the city’s Piazza San Fedele, with huge bales of raw linen flax dotted around – which after the show, would create the brand’s signature linen clothes.

The collection was all about summer suiting – in block colours, neutral tones and relaxed fits.

Prada gave a more unique take on the trend – sticking to tailoring, but playing around with proportions and shapes. And in typical Prada fashion, there was a bit of theatre to the show – with slime oozing from the ceiling around the runway and pooling on the floor.

Creative director of Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli, was inspired by Hanya Yanagihara’s classic novel about the lives of four men in New York, A Little Life, for his show. Copies of the book were given out as invitations, words from the pages were written onto garments, but most importantly, the brand says the show was about “redefining and re-examining the masculine identity”.

It was a softer approach to tailoring, with floral patterns, shorts as well as trousers and loose fits.

Not to be outdone in the tailoring department, Italian legend Giorgio Armani aimed to show how you can dress elegantly for spring/summer without showing skin.

The front row was suitably attired for the shows. Euphoria actor Jacob Elordi almost broke the internet with his schoolboy-inspired ensemble to watch the Valentino presentation, made up of a crisp white shirt, black tie, leather blazer and black shorts.

Stars like singer Troye Sivan and actor Damson Idris were at the Prada show, wearing relaxed tailoring in neutral hues.

Actors Mads Mikkelsen, John Boyega and Chris Pine were all front row for the Zegna show, modelling soft linen outfits in various shades.

A cost-of-living crisis might seem like a strange time for a trend like quiet luxury to come about, but it’s actually relatively easy to replicate on a smaller budget.

While before people might have been showing off their status with brands and logos, for this trend all you have to do it focus on simplicity, minimalism and timelessness – regardless of what label you wear.

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