17 September 2023

See Kate’s go-to designer Erdem wow at London Fashion Week

17 September 2023

British models Daisy Lowe and Erin O’Connor were among famous faces on the front row at the Erdem catwalk show at London Fashion Week.

Lowe, who gave birth to her first child, daughter Ivy, in April, wore a green and black floral dress by the designer.

Erdem Moralioglu, who founded his eponymous label in 2005, has become a celebrity and royal fashion favourite.

The Princess of Wales has worn his designs on numerous occasions, most recently a two-piece navy skirt suit for the Commonwealth Day service in Westminster Abbey.

For his spring/summer 2024 catwalk – which was staged outside, under the imposing colonnade of the British Museum – Moralioglu displayed many of his design signatures, while also exploring some stunning new aesthetic avenues.

The collection was inspired by Deborah Cavendish, the Duchess of Devonshire, who was born in 1920. The aristocrat, writer and socialite was the youngest and last surviving of the famous Mitford sisters.

Moralioglu  – who was born in Canada to a Turkish father and an English mother – is famous for his use of florals, and there was no shortage of chintzy prints and bold blooms on waist-cinching midi dresses and prim pencil skirts (another Erdem favourite).

Similarly, diaphanous slip dresses and full midi skirts will no doubt please longtime fans of the label.

There was a fresh focus on patchwork, with contrasting prints combined on the same garment – such as the opening look, a voluminous cream and mustard quilted coat with tartan-lined brown sleeves.

Volume has become a major theme this season at London Fashion Week, and Erdem’s high-waisted full skirts were bang on trend.

Alongside a series of elegant evening gowns in pastel pink and yellow hues, a pair of oversized leather biker jackets in teal and emerald green with silver embellishments added a tough-luxe edge we’ve not seen before.

Next up, a slew of midi skirts emblazoned with big, brushstroke prints in bright green, fuchsia, cobalt and red begged the question: is this the most colourful Erdem collection ever?

Moralioglu’s A-list fans – who include Nicole Kidman and Alexa Chung – adore his flower-powered designs, so it will be interesting to see whether they embrace his bold new direction.

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