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21 January 2021

The powerful messaging behind the inauguration fashion

21 January 2021

Joe Biden has been sworn in as US president, with Kamala Harris as vice president.

The inauguration was a celebratory occasion, with performances from Lady Gaga and Jennifer Lopez, and Biden speaking about hope and unity.

For the swearing-in ceremony and all the events around it, politicians and celebrities used fashion as a powerful tool. So much can be conveyed through clothes; it was an opportunity to showcase a diverse America and heralds a new era.

Kamala Harris

Kamala Harris with her husband Doug Emhoff during a COVID-19 memorial on Tuesday

The evening before getting sworn in, Harris, Biden and their partners attended a memorial for those who’ve lost their lives due to Covid-19.

Harris wore a beige coat by designer Kerby-Jean Raymond of label Pyer Moss. Throughout the inauguration events, Harris only wore black designers – significant because she is the first black and Indian-American woman to be VP.

Raymond was also a powerful choice because he turned his New York office into a PPE donation centre and set up a fund to support “minority and women-owned small creative businesses who are currently in distress”.

Kamala Harris is sworn in as vice president by Supreme Court Justice Sonia Sotomayor (AP Photo/Andrew Harnik/PA) (AP)

For the swearing-in ceremony, Harris wore a purple coat and dress by Christopher John Rogers, a queer, black designer based in New York. His designs have previously been worn by Zendaya and Tracee Ellis Ross, and he’s known for bright colours, bold silhouettes and high glamour. The colour purple is likely a nod to the colours of the US suffragette movement: purple, white and gold.

Vice President Kamala Harris speaks from the Lincoln Memorial

For the virtual concert in the evening, Harris tapped Southern designer Sergio Hudson. Hudson created a black sequinned cocktail dress with tuxedo overcoat, and told Harper’s Bazaar: “We kept the silhouette very structured and tailored, because that’s who the Vice President is, but the liquid sequins give her glamour and shine, because her influence and the way she’s broken barriers is a light for so many of us. She shines so we can all shine.”

Dr Jill Biden

The Bidens at the inauguration

First Lady Dr Jill Biden wore a bright teal ensemble for the inauguration, complete with a matching face mask. Instead of choosing a mainstream, established designer, Biden wore up-and-coming label Markarian. Founded in 2017 by Alexandra O’Neill, Markarian has dressed the likes of Kerry Washington and Laura Dern.

President Joe Biden and First Lady Jill Biden

Biden then changed into a white coat and dress by Uruguayan American designer Gabriela Hearst. The outfit was embroidered with flowers, which New York Times fashion director Vanessa Friedman noted reflected “all of the state flowers of the United States and territories and the District of Columbia”.

Joe Biden

Joe Biden speaks after being sworn in

Biden wore a Ralph Lauren suit, a brand that very much fits his values. An all-American brand, Ralph Lauren often incorporates the national flag into its designs, and has dressed team USA for the Olympics.

Michelle Obama

Barack and Michelle Obama at the inauguration

Former First Lady Michelle Obama attended the inauguration in a jaw-droppingly chic outfit. With wide-legged trousers, a statement belt and long coat, Obama’s plum ensemble was also designed by Sergio Hudson.

Lady Gaga

Biden greets Lady Gaga

Lady Gaga sung the national anthem in suitably dramatic attire. Her giant Schiaparelli gown featured a red skirt and navy jacket – reminiscent of the American flag – and had a golden brooch attached. Gaga explained on Twitter it was, “A dove carrying an olive branch. May we all make peace with each other.”

Ella Emhoff

Kamala Harris' stepchildren, Cole and Ella Emhoff

Harris’ stepdaughter Ella Emhoff was one of the breakout fashion stars of the day. A student at the Parsons School of Design, Emhoff wore an embellished Miu Miu coat and a burgundy Batsheva dress. The look was youthful and stylish, with some seeing the statement collar as a nod to late Justice of the Supreme Court Ruth Bader Ginsburg.

Bernie Sanders

Bernie Sanders

Senator Bernie Sanders isn’t exactly known for his style, but his low-key inauguration outfit still went viral. He wore a heavy winter coat with knitted mittens, sparking countless memes.

Sanders later told CBS: “You know in Vermont, we dress warm, we know something about the cold. And we’re not so concerned about good fashion, we want to keep warm, and that’s what I did today.” Vermont schoolteacher Jen Ellis was responsible for his gloves, and  tweeted: “They are made from repurposed wool sweaters and lined with fleece (made from recycled plastic bottles).”

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