“I’m not sure if you’re allowed to call a sauce that doesn’t contain meat, doesn’t start with a soffritto, and that only cooks for 10 minutes a ragu, and yet because of the concentrated flavour of the dried porcini, this has all the intensity of a meat ragu that has simmered for hours,” says Ixta Belfrage.

She recommends having all your prep done before you start cooking, as “things happen rather quickly”.

Porcini ragu recipe

Ingredients:(Serves 2 as a main with leftovers, or 4 as a starter)

40g dried porcini4tbsp olive oil, plus extra to serve3 cloves of garlic, very finely chopped(not crushed!)½tsp chilli flakes (or less if you prefer)10g fresh parsley (stalks and leaves), finely chopped, plus extra to serve⅓tsp fine salt1½tbsp tomato puree/pasteAbout 50 twists of freshly ground black pepper250g dried tagliatelle nests40g Parmesan, very finely grated, plus extra to serve3tbsp double cream

Method:

1. In a medium bowl, cover the porcini with boiling water and leave to soak for 10 minutes. Drain, reserving 75g of the soaking liquid. Very finely chop the porcini to mince consistency, then set aside.

2. Put the oil, garlic, chilli flakes, parsley and fine salt into a cold, large sauté pan on a medium-low heat. Very gently fry for five minutes until soft and lightly golden, turning the heat down if the garlic starts to brown.

3. Increase the heat to medium-high, then add the chopped porcini, tomato puree/paste and plenty of pepper. Stir-fry for three minutes, then set the pan aside while you boil the pasta.

4. Cook the pasta in salted boiling water for about six minutes, until al dente. Drain, reserving 350g of the pasta water.

5. Return the sauté pan with the porcini to a medium-high heat, then add the 350g of pasta water and the reserved 75g of porcini soaking liquid. Stir, and bring to a simmer. Once simmering, leave to bubble away for three minutes. Add half the Parmesan to the pan, stirring until it has melted before adding the rest. Lower the heat to medium, then stir in the cream, followed by the drained tagliatelle. Toss over the heat until the pasta and sauce have emulsified – about one-and-a-half minutes.

6. Remove from the heat and serve at once, finished with as much extra oil and Parmesan as your heart desires.

Mezcla: Recipes To Excite by Ixta Belfrage is published by Ebury Press, priced £26. Photography by Yuki Sugiura. Available now.