“Dubu kimchi is made up of two parts: poached tofu and stir-fried kimchi. It is a popular dish, often served as anju, a Korean word that means ‘drinking food’,” explains food writer Su Scott.

“Soured, overripe kimchi is prized for its flavoursome tanginess that works perfectly in stir-fried dishes, usually paired with rich, fatty pork to dial down the complex, sour pungency with contrasting richness. The loud and bold flavour of kimchi is warmly supported by poached tofu that is welcomingly tender on the tongue.”

Tofu with buttered kimchi

Ingredients:(Serves 4)

1tbsp vegetable oil½ onion, thinly sliced200g minced pork½tsp freshly cracked black pepper20g unsalted butter2 garlic cloves, minced350g overripe kimchi, roughly chopped2tsp golden granulated sugar1tbsp mirin1½tbsp gochugaru (Korean red pepper flakes)1tbsp soy sauce200g tinned chopped tomatoes396g block of firm tofuSea salt flakes

To finish:1tbsp toasted sesame oil½tsp toasted white sesame seeds1 spring onion, thinly slicedA pinch of black sesame seeds

Method:

1. Heat the vegetable oil in a large sauté pan over a medium heat. Add the onion with a pinch of salt and fry for one to two minutes to soften. When the onion has collapsed and is starting to smell fragrant, add the pork and the cracked black pepper and stir frequently for about eight to 10 minutes until lightly browned, without allowing it to burn. It should be golden brown in colour with an almost sweet, caramelising smell.

2. Lower the heat and melt in the butter with the garlic, then add the kimchi, sugar, mirin and gochugaru. Give it a good stir to combine the ingredients, then sauté gently for five minutes, stirring occasionally. Make sure not to burn the gochugaru. We are not here to caramelise the kimchi, rather to soften it slowly in luscious fat.

3. After five minutes, your pan should look a little drier than when you started to fry the kimchi. Stir in the soy sauce, ensuring it is completely incorporated, before adding the tomatoes. Let it simmer for a further 10 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, bring a pan of well-salted water to the boil. Slice the tofu into two long blocks about 4cm wide. Gently drop the tofu blocks into the boiling water and poach them for five minutes over a low heat. Carefully drain the tofu and cool slightly, taking care of the hot steam. When they’re cooled down enough to handle, cut each block into 2cm thick slabs.

5. By now, the kimchi should be ready. Check the seasoning and add a pinch more salt or sugar, if necessary. To finish, stir in the sesame oil and white sesame seeds. Reserve some of the spring onion for garnish, if you like, and add the remainder.

6. To serve, transfer the sliced tofu slabs onto a serving platter or individual plates, along with the sautéed kimchi either on top or on the side. Top with the black sesame seeds and reserved spring onion.

Rice Table by Su Scott is published by Quadrille on March 30, priced £27. Photography by Toby Scott.